Instructions

1. Trim the stems off the eggplants and discard. Slice the eggplants lengthwise into 1?4-inch-thick strips; if the eggplants are very long or very wide, cut the slices in half crosswise or lengthwise to yield strips 4 to 6 inches long and 11?2 to 2 inches wide.
2. Lay the slices on a parchment-lined baking sheet and sprinkle on salt generously. Set another baking sheet on top and weigh it down with a heavy cast-iron pan (or set up an equivalent arrangement) and set the eggplant aside for an hour or so to drain and compress.
3. Meanwhile, make the filling: Combine the walnuts, garlic, ground spices, salt, and chiles in a food processor or a mortar and process or pound to blend thoroughly. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the herbs, scallions, and vinegar or lemon juice.
4. Rinse the eggplant strips thoroughly in a colander and squeeze dry. Place a wide heavy skillet over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons oil, and heat until hot.
5. Slide some eggplant strips into the oil, without crowding, lower the heat to medium, and fry, turning once, until cooked through, about 10 minutes.
6. Lift out onto a paper towel–lined plate or baking sheet and set aside until cool enough to handle. Repeat with the remaining eggplant, adding more oil as necessary and heating it until hot before adding more eggplant.
7. Spread some filling on each eggplant strip, roll up, and set seam side down on a platter. Serve at room temperature.